An Ethiopian New Year

What began as a plan to hike in one of three countries—scaling Iran’s Mount Damavand (5,610 m), climbing Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania (5,895 m), or trekking Ethiopia’s highlands, eventually found its natural conclusion in Ethiopia.

Addis Ababa, the capital, revealed itself as a modern city gracefully woven with green spaces, wide avenues, and an unexpected sense of openness—both vibrant and calm, a city breathing beneath trees and sky. Ethiopia itself carries stark contrasts: poverty and wealth, tradition and modernity, all coexisting side by side. And then there is the food and coffee. Enjoying traditional Ethiopian coffee and dishes such as Shiro Wat, Doro Wat, a Beyaynetu platter, and Siga Tibs—bite-sized beef or lamb sautéed with spices, onions, and peppers, served with injera—reminds one that here, a meal is more than sustenance; it is a cultural expression

Ethiopia operates on its own 13-month calendar, placing it roughly 7–8 years behind the Gregorian calendar, and follows a unique 12-hour clock system that begins at sunrise. To visit Ethiopia is to step into another temporal rhythm altogether. Genna, Ethiopian Christmas, is celebrated on January 7th—today—following the ancient Julian calendar.

What Makes Ethiopia Unique:

Ethiopia doesn’t just feel different—it is different, in ways deeply rooted in history, culture, and spirit.

Source of the Blue Nile From Lake Tana flows the Blue Nile, contributing the majority of the Nile’s waters—the historic lifeline of Egypt and Sudan.

The Cradle of Humanity Ethiopia’s soil yielded the remains of Lucy, known locally as Dinkinesh (“you are marvelous”), one of the oldest and most complete hominid skeletons ever found. It is widely believed that this region is the birthplace of humankind, from where humans began migrating across the world roughly 60,000 to 100,000 years ago.

The Uncolonized Spirit Ethiopia stands as Africa’s only nation never formally colonized, a fact woven deeply into national identity and pride.

The Gift of Coffee Legend traces coffee’s discovery to the Kaffa region. The Ethiopian coffee ceremony remains a sacred ritual of aroma, patience, and community.

Ancient Christian Roots One of the world’s earliest Christian nations (since the 4th century), Ethiopia preserves ancient scripts, traditions, and architectural wonders such as the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela.

Roof of Africa The Ethiopian Highlands host nearly 70% of Africa’s mountains. The Simien Mountains, often called “the chessboard of the gods,” offer some of the continent’s most dramatic landscapes.

Its People Renowned for humility, resilience, and profound hospitality, the people of Ethiopia transform a visit into a genuine human encounter.

A New Year Without Fireworks

I have come to believe that fireworks represent one of humanity’s more wasteful indulgences—turning vast resources into light, smoke and noise while nearly 700 million people still live in extreme poverty. Globally, an estimated $1.5 billion is spent annually on New Year’s fireworks, with cities such as Dubai, Sydney, London, and New York each spending millions on a single night.

Beyond the expense, fireworks terrify animals, disrupt ecosystems, and can trigger trauma—especially among people who have lived in regions shaped by conflict. I once witnessed a controlled detonation of an unexploded bomb from the 1970s during a previous assignment; the shock caused a woman in a nearby village to suffer a miscarriage. Loud explosions are not always a celebration—they carry a hidden weight.

Trekking the Bale Mountains:

New Year was marked by a two-night, three-day trek beginning on December 31st into Bale Mountains National Park. An afternoon hike through the Gessa grasslands introduced to endemic wildlife. The following day was spent exploring the Sanetti Plateau and the lush Harenna Forest, ending with a night at a forest lodge. The final morning was devoted to further exploration of the plateau and forest before returning to Robe. The Bale Mountains are a sanctuary—home to the rare Ethiopian wolf, vast Afroalpine moorlands, and dense, mist-laced forests.

Now back in Addis Ababa—reading books, working from cafés, mingling with locals, and absorbing the city’s energy. Ethiopia is its people, its history, and its land—inseparable and alive. Now looking ahead to the next leg of the journey.